The Pueblo of Jemez
The Pueblo of Jemez (pronounced "Hay-mess" or traditionally as "He-mish") is a federally recognized dependent sovereign Nation of North American Indians with just over 3,000 tribal members, most of whom reside within the sole remaining village that is known as "Walatowa" (there once were over 60 Jemez Puebloan villages but warfare and disease brought by the Spanish terminated their existence). Walatowa is located in the Jemez Mountains of North-Central New Mexico (USA), approximately 35 linear miles northwest of Albuquerque and roughly 45 linear miles southwest of Santa Fe. Los Alamos National Laboratory is situated 26 linear miles toward the northeast (12 linear miles from the reservation boundary). The Pueblo of Jemez is one of 19 Pueblos located within New Mexico. However, the language (Towa) is unique and spoken only by the Jemez People. In fact, unwritten traditional tribal law forbids the written translation of the Towa language into English or any other form of written language in order to protect the internal preservation that it provides. Since over 90% of the tribal members speak the Towa language fluently, the language is not in danger of being lost.

In terms of economics, the Pueblo of Jemez is not a gaming tribe (no casinos), nor does it have any viable oil or gas resources and it is not situated near any major highways or population centers. Most of the resident tribal members are therefore farmers, ranchers, craftsmen and excellent artists. A few commute great distances each day to work in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and at Los Alamos National Laboratory. A few are also employed locally by the USDA Forest Service and a small number work directly for the tribe. Overall, the average annual income at Walatowa is less than $ 3000.

The Tribal Government for the Pueblo of Jemez consist of a "secular" side (mandated by Royal Spanish Decree of 1620) which administrates all matters having to do with the "outside world", and the "Supreme Council of Traditional Leaders" (deeply rooted in prehistory) which administers all matters of internal significance. The secular government includes a "Tribal Council" (composed of ex-Governors), a Governor, two Lt. Governors, two Fiscales (church officers/children's Governors) and a Tribal Sheriff. Youthful assistants (Aids) are assigned to assist these secular officers. With the exception of the Tribal Council (members serve for life), the three Governors, the Fiscales, the Tribal Sheriff, and the designated Aids are all appointed (not elected) on an annual basis by the Supreme Council of Traditional Leaders. However, the Governor then assumes position on the Tribal Council after his term has been completed. As far as outside interaction with the Tribe is concerned, all official communications must first be initiated through the "Office of the Governor", who then consults with, or delegates to, the full-time Staff of Departmental Directors (Dept. of Archaeology and Preservation, Dept. of Health, Dept. of Tourism, Senior Citizens Program, Tribal Court, etc.).

The People of the Pueblo of Jemez are "extremely" traditional and their ancient knowledge has been well preserved through their songs, stories, customs and drawings on rock (petroglyphs and pictographs). Elders and children are especially important and their well-being is a top priority. Of the utmost importance is the protection and preservation of the Ancestral Jemez lands, artifacts and the numerous ancestral village sites (archaeological), most of which now lay in ruins on nearby lands that were involuntarily taken from the Jemez People over the past 300 years. In fact, the ancestors of the Jemez People constructed some of the largest prehistoric architectural structures (made from wet-laid volcanic stone) ever built in what is now the United States with some pueblos containing well over 2500 rooms under a single roof that projected upwards of four and five stories high. These ancestral sites and lands are still paid tribute to each and every day through the thoughts, prayers and spiritual offerings of the Jemez People.

Although first contact between the Jemez and the Spanish Europeans took place in July of 1540, the Jemez were already aware of the Spanish presence to the south (Mexico) due to reports provided by visiting Aztec and Mexican Indians. Almost from day one, the Jemez People stood in opposition to the Europeans due to the fact that the army of General Francisco Vasquez de Coronado took a prominent Pecos leader hostage...and the Pecos were kinsmen of the Jemez People. Coronado returned to Mexico in 1542 and it was not until 1581 that the Europeans again entered the Jemez Domain (Chamuscado Expedition credited with first using the term "Nuevo Mejico"). In 1583, the Espejo Expedition entered the Jemez Domain and recorded 30,000 "souls" living within the Jemez Nation. In July of 1598, the first colonizing expedition entered the area under Don Juan de Onate. From this point forward, Jemez history was one of strong resistance, including a major role in the "Great Pueblo Revolt of 1680" during which, all Europeans were expelled from the "Kingdom and Provinces of New Mexico". Finally, in 1696, the last stronghold of the Jemez Nation fell to the Spanish cross, crown and sword of Don Diego DeVargas. The estimated population of the entire Jemez Nation was now only a few hundred people and most of their sacred lands were taken away as punishment for their resistance.

Today, the Jemez Pueblo of Walatowa is not open to exploration by tourists or non-Tribal members. Any person needing to enter the Pueblo should first check-in with the Visitors Center or the Governors Office. Additional information to accommodate a visit can be obtained through the Pueblo's Visitors Center ((505) 834-7235). It is very important to note that certain "rules and guidelines" must be followed to ensure that ones visit is enjoyable:


First, absolutely NO PHOTOGRAPHY, VIDEOGRAPHY, AUDIO RECORDING, SKETCHING or DRAWING is permitted and any such tools, if found, will be confiscated by Tribal Officials and the violator(s) will be escorted out of the Pueblo and off of Tribal Lands.

Second, it is improper to climb on the walls of the ancient buildings and any artifacts, feathers, beads etc. should be left on the ground if found anywhere within the Pueblo.

Third, it is improper and disrespectful for visitors to walk within the dance plaza, even if the dancers are not present at the time. All movements should be confined to the periphery of the plaza. Applause after dances also are not appropriate and it is considered very rude to conduct business or loudly socialize during a dance. Care should also be taken not to block the view of the elders and physically challenged and not to block the doorways into the adjacent homes.

Fourth, the Pueblo's Kivas and graveyards are not to be entered by non-Puebloan People and visitors are not permitted to drive on any of the Pueblo's back-roads.


A few popular misconceptions regarding the Pueblo of Jemez exist in the published literature. For example, the name "Jemez" does not mean "mirage people" or "people of the canyon". Likewise, the name "Walatowa" does not translate to "village of the bear". The true definition of these words constitute intellectual property that the Tribal Leaders choose not to share with those of the outside world. Another misconception promoted in the published archaeological literature is that the Jemez Culture originated from the now vanished "Gallina Culture" (ca. AD 1000-1300), a prehistoric cultural group that once existed some 60 miles to the northwest of the Jemez Pueblo of Walatowa. In fact, there are no "unique or diagnostic" similarities between the Gallina and the Ancestral Jemez Culture, and those that have been cited in the archaeological literature can also be universally seen as similarities between the Gallina and the ancestors of all present day Puebloan Cultures. Furthermore, the detailed oral history of the Jemez People clearly indicates that they have no connection to the Gallina Culture (contrary to what some anthropologist have claimed), whose presence is noted in the authentic telling of the Ancestral Jemez Migration epic within which the ca. AD 1300 movement of the Jemez People from the "Four-Corners Area" to their present homeland in the Jemez Mountains is clearly recorded.


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